Buying a church vehicle? Follow these guidelines to ensure your bus, motor coach or recreational bus conversion purchase goes well, providing you years of success.

Whether buying from a school district, municipal government, or used bus dealer, you have a number of issues to consider. First you have to decide which type bus you want, and then you decide budget and begin research on the individual units in consideration.

Just because a bus is being sold at an auction doesn't mean it's a worn out piece of junk. Usually due to insurance reasons, they have been maintained quite well. Many agencies have to sell due to decreased enrollment in a project or funding changes. Sometimes it's simply their policy - no buses over 5 years old or over 200,000 miles, etc.

Trying to save a few bucks on the foundation is unwise. If you need to skimp, do so on the cosmetics later. The church kids aren't going to care if they sit on vinyl or leather, but schedule a big event and have a breakdown due to faulty brakes, and they'll never forget it.

So, you have access to an auction list or an inventory of used buses, or an individual bus in mind. Ask for service records, original paperwork and recent repair receipts. Everything in the paper trail will help you determine value and avoid potential problems. It will also reward you with some eye-opening information.

Oh, you mean you didn't know an engine swap could cost $3,000? Surprised that a brake job with rotors and new lines was $1,400? Or that at tire mounted and balanced might cost $400? Receipts and paperwork are very valuable.

Carefully look through the paperwork and avoid the purchase of buses with no paper trail at all. Look for weird situations. Finding a receipt for an AC charge might be good, if it’s recent. Come across receipts for an AC charge done three times in the last year, and you have a problem. Of the receipts don't have the bus VIN on them, how do you know the receipts are for the bus you are looking at?

Here is a rule of thumb when buying a bus for one tenth the original price. Budget for parts and labor on any mechanical part for which you don't have a good history, receipt trail, or ability to inspect. In other words, if you can't verify its condition, then don't buy the bus unless you can afford to replace it, part by part. That means: AC, brakes, hydraulic lines, engine compression, transmission condition, steering and front end parts, electrical system from the wiring harness to the gauges, alternator and fuse panels, tires, body, and glass, air compressor buildup and recovery times, and many other items your mechanic can advise you about.

It is possible to buy a used school bus for $5,000 that originally sold for over $70,000 or a nearly indestructible stainless steel passenger coach for 10% of the original price. With such a great bargain to begin with, you really shouldn't purchase anything but the best foundation you can afford. You may later choose to spend $10,000 to $30,000 or hundreds of hours of your time on converting or customizing the bus or establishing yourself as a dependable tour operator. Do you really want to build on a shell that has a bad frame? Do you really want to invest so much in a bus that has a bad engine or transmission that you must constantly fight with?

Rust
When buying a used bus, remember that rust cannot be stopped. Rust does not rest. Rust must be taken seriously, no matter how cheap your bus candidate is. If you think you can sheet metal and bondo your way to a permanent fix, think again. If the rust is just a little, it'll grow quickly by the time you're done investing a lot of your time and money. A little rust on the body surface may be acceptable for the price. Do not, however, accept structural rust, heavily flaking frames, rusting-out fenders or hood hinge mounts. Anything that would be a major problem when (not if) it gets twice as bad as it is now will make you very sorry.

Service Records
If it's been in fleet use, it has one. If you're buying from a middle man and he can't produce it, you may have problems, possibly serious ones. If not, he'd be proudly displaying the records. Check how long since the engine rebuild - they last about 75 -125,000 miles, depending on whether they are driven stop and go in the mountains or over long stretches of flat highway.

Leaks
Look for any signs of leaks, particularly from Automatic Transmissions. Some transmissions used in buses have weak front seals and leak when the transmission gets really hot. Don't buy a bus with a leaky transmission. A replacement can cost $5,000 parts and labor. Leaking brake components or hydraulic systems can be expensive to repair also.

Transmissions
Try for an automatic unless you have a real preference. Older standard shifts are much harder to sell because many older coaches are purchased as conversion candidates.

Engines
Get the biggest engine you can afford, especially if you are adding conversion weight to the vehicle. There is no substitute for size (raw cubic inches).

Seven Commandments
When choosing a bus to convert to church transportation, be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of the particular platform you are considering. Here are seven commandments governing the purchase of any make or model bus. Break just one of these rules, and you will probably be sorry, possibly ruining your bus ownership experience altogether.

I - Thou shalt NEVER buy a bus that has rust on critical areas of frame or supporting body This cannot be permanently fixed without a huge expense.

II - Thou shalt NOT buy a particular bus for which you have not determined your source for repair and replacement parts. If you can't find a supplier in a month, then you probably will never find that part. Many are surprised when they see attractive $30,000+ buses sitting idle and don't realize it is normally due to replacement parts problems.

III - Thou shalt NOT purchase a project bus, one in need of substantial conversions or repairs, without a clear, accurate cost estimate, deadlines and plan for completion. "Great bus buying deals" can quickly become embarrassing "projects that never get done.”

IV - Thou shalt NOT purchase a bus until you have identified exactly what problems you are trying to solve or what needs you are trying to meet with the vehicle. The needs of a church for an inexpensive shuttle bus vary greatly from those of a wealthy musician traveling 90,000 miles a year. You may have many choices in the market but only one will be your best solution. The path to happiness starts with identifying exactly what you need...not which pretty bus the salesman can get you financed for the quickest.

V - Thou shalt NOT buy a bus without a complete professional inspection of major parts, engine, transmission, frame, electrical and air conditioning. Warranties, service records and history of vehicles use can be very valuable in helping determine value.

VI - Thou shalt NOT purchase a bus without an absolutely verifiable title with year of original production in place. For instance, it is legal in many states to "re-title" an older bus, say a 1980 model. First the dealer will make repairs and renovations up to DOT standards. Then they can legally re-title it. There is nothing wrong with this as long as it is disclosed and the price reflects the value.